The attractive and sizeable village of Kalives on the northern side of the peninsula has the usual array of tourist shops clinging to the seafront. Among the more unusual is a cooper’s workshop, making traditional iron-bound barrels, some of the smaller examples of which are sold as souvenirs in adjoining wine shop – the full-size versions will be used in the traditional, small-scale winemaking operations which go on throughout the island in the autumn.
There are numerous tavernas offering tourist food or, in a number of cases, “traditional Cretan” fare.
We counted ourselves lucky to find ourselves in one of the villages longest-established tavernas, Koumandros, which was established in 1865 and where traditional food really is traditional.
The taverna is run by Stelios and his wife, Aspacia, assisted by their three children, Eva, Yiorgos and Iosaphina, who work under the watchful gaze of their forefathers including the founder of the family business, whose portrait adorns the wall.
Koumandros is a place to eat, not somewhere to go for frills – the tables are basic, taverna standard; so too are the chairs – but the food is excellent. We enjoyed a huge Greek salad, topped with home-picked oregano and accompanied by a delicious wholewheat bread, followed by fried aubergines, shrimps (as the Greeks always call them, actually full-size prawns) and chicken cooked in tomato and olive oil sauce.
From the tables at the far end of the room, there is a fine view of the river just before it reaches the sea, featuring an unusual hotel bar made from a small fishing boat.
- Island hopping in Greece
- Stalis – popular resort on the east of Crete
- Gerani, Crete – unspoilt and is worth wandering
- Gortyn – largest and one of the most important archaeological sites in Crete
- Kalives, Crete – a charming village on Drapano Peninsula
- Elafonisi Island, Crete
- Agia Galini, Crete South Coast – nothing but tavernas, bars, gift shops and rooms to rent
- Lassithi, Crete – excellent wines and whitewashed windmills
- Paleochora, Crete – excellent sandy beaches
- Rethymnon, Crete – popular choice for visitors to the west of the island
- Malia, Crete Holidays – number one clubbing destination for Brits
- Athens beaches – best beach facilities around Athens coast
- Summer Holidays in Kefalonia, Greece
- Super Paradise Beach, Mykonos – Naturists Enjoy Curving Sandy Bay
- Santorini Sunset: where to stay in Santorini for the best views – Santorini villas, hotels and apartments
- Dodecanese Holidays: Patmos, Lipsi and Agathonissi
- Kalymnos, Greece: Climbing Vacation or Beach Holidays
- Chios, Greece – Stunning Beaches and Medieval Trips in the Past
- Naxos Holidays – the biggest island of the Cyclades archipelago
- Rhodes Holidays – the island of the sun and the island of the knights
- Samos Holidays – sunny weather, famous beaches
- Kea Island Holidays – marvellous beaches and interesting places to visit
- Ikaria Holidays – Ikaria Island will not disappoint
- Spetses Island holidays – enjoy a traditional Greek Island
- Greek Island Holidays – over two thousand islands to choose from
- Santorini Holidays – an experience you will never forget
- Best beaches in Greek islands
- Nude beaches in Greece
- Paros, Greece Holidays: visiting a traditional Greek island
- Best beaches in Greece: Santorini Caldera perfect for romantic travellers
- Greece for a great family vacation